Good to know

How to plant the hedge?

Before purchasing plants, please evaluate your ability to care for them and whether you really need the largest and most lush specimens! Small plants will grow in much more easily than a 2-meter tall thuja or juniper.

Our customers who have purchased thuja for hedge planting often call during the first and second year, asking

what to do if the plants are yellowing and show no signs of growth. To avoid such a situation, it is important to carefully plant and care for them. Soil preparation and improvement have the greatest impact on plant growth. Observations in thuja cultivation show that when planting thuja in a hedge, it is advisable to improve the soil with peat and old, decomposed manure, which will provide a soft place for root system development and nutrients. (Many gardeners and lecturers have a strange misconception that conifers cannot be

fertilized with manure). Whether to dig a trench or round pits for planting depends on the current size of the plant, the distance between trees, and your own abilities. If 1-2.5 meter tall trees are planted at 80cm intervals or closer, it is more practical to dig a trench 50x60 cm. It is not worth digging deeper than 60cm, as the thuja's root system is in the upper layer of the soil. Only the root that delivers water during dry periods goes deeper. In the trench, mix peat (PH 5.5-6.5) and manure in a 1/1 ratio with a spade. If the soil excavated from the top layer of the trench is fertile, you can add a little to this mixture. Thoroughly water the prepared mixture. Ideally, these preparations should be done a week before planting, so that the PH level of the mixture in the trench can be tested - it should be between 5.5-6.5.

Basic liming is practically necessary for all soils with a pHKCl below 5 - 5.2. In such soils, without liming, the use of mineral fertilizers is not cost-effective and the plants will be stunted. The trench should be filled so that there is approximately 25 cm left to the ground surface, then you can plant the brought plants with their root balls (which should include soil) and add the required amount of soil to level the trench with the ground surface. The piled-up soil around the root ball should be firmly pressed so that there are no air gaps. The planted plants should be thoroughly watered. The soil will settle after a few days, the required amount should be added and leveled, and the tilted plants should be straightened.

Watering the hedge

Watering the hedge It is very important to maintain proper moisture levels during the first two months. If the plants become waterlogged at the beginning for some reason, it is inevitable that they will begin to yellow and shed their inner needles more intensely after a while. For watering, you can use a simple drip irrigation pipe, which is sold in K-Rauta, Depo, Akvedukt and other stores in Latvia (approximate price 0.40-0.60 Euro/m). Connect one end of the pipe to a tap, and plug the other end. Watering should be done in the morning or evening. Watering in the sun can cause leaf burns.

At the beginning, it is advisable to create a basin around the plants so that the water does not flow out of the root ball when watering. If the weather is dry, water the plants regularly throughout the season until autumn. To check if you need to water, grab the soil from the bottom of the plants and squeeze it in your fist; when you release your fist, it should not crumble into dust but stay together. With watering, it is a matter of feeling. After planting, we recommend watering three times a week.

A sign indicating a lack of water the previous year is the appearance of a large number of seeds. Seed cones form precisely in dry years (two brown cones form at the tip of each small leaf).



Why do plants turn yellow?

Water shortage is just one of the factors affecting plant yellowing after planting; it is influenced by planting time, proximity of large trees, groundwater, air temperature, the number of sunny days, soil acidity level, and the plant's adaptation period to new conditions.

When planting plants in a nursery, we observed that all plants could yellow in the first year, regardless of their size. The more you water the thuja and provide the appropriate moisture for the roots, the less likely the plants will turn distinctly yellow. Keep in mind that planting thuja taller than 2.5m will have an adaptation period of at least two years and will require more systematic, careful care.

The distinctly green color (for trees up to 2m) appears at the end of the second year after planting; the plants simply need to root, adapt to new conditions and location. When planting in clay soils, it is essential to improve the soil, as hard clay will form the root system very slowly, and plants will yellow and not grow. The foundation for plants includes old manure, peat, compost, minerals, water, sun, and wind. Like us, plants need to eat and drink regularly.

A sign indicating a lack of water the previous year is the appearance of a large number of seeds. Seed cones form precisely in dry years (two brown cones form at the tip of each small leaf).

If yellowish-black spots appear on the lower part of the plants, it indicates that they are being constantly urinated on by cats and dogs, marking their territory. Nothing else will help but a small fence or some other barrier at least 1m away from the tree. Over time, these spots will grow over.

This is what your hedge will look like after not watering:



The pictures show a hedge planted around the perimeter of the nursery as a windbreak. The main plants (green in the picture) were planted in 2010, but with large gaps. In the autumn of 2011, additional plants were planted in between. In the spring, while the soil was still moist, the plants retained their green tone, but as the dry summer began, they started to yellow. It should be noted that the hedge has not been watered at this stage, only receiving natural rainfall. The trees that survived without watering will have rooted within 2 years and regained their green color.

Frost cracks

In 2017, nursery owners were often called and asked why individual branches or tips of thuja trees were turning brown. This situation has been observed every year at the "Bīlasti" nursery, but on a much smaller scale. This year, the damage has affected all thuja nurseries. Anyone can easily check their thuja plantings for signs of frost cracks caused by temperature changes. But why do these cracks occur? Frost cracks are characteristic of plants with relatively thin bark and manifest as large vertical bark cracks, most often on the southern side of the trunk. At the end of winter and the beginning of spring, the water in the inner bark layer and wood of the plant rapidly expands and contracts, which is most pronounced when the temperature drops quickly, as it often does at night. Larger trees can even be heard cracking. Weak spots in the bark are considered to be those that have been damaged previously or have branching points from the trunk. Factors that contribute to frost cracks include sudden temperature fluctuations, wind, strong sunlight, poor soil drainage, and, to a lesser extent, fertilization errors (too much or too little). The winter of 2017 was mild in terms of frost. Thujas were not in a true winter dormancy state. Those who observed the weather noticed significant day and night temperature fluctuations (from +20C to -3C). During the day, the thuja bark expanded in the warmth, and as the air temperature dropped rapidly in the evening, the bark could no longer contract slowly, resulting in large vertical bark cracks. Strong winds and sun exposure exacerbated this situation. Signs of frost cracks:

1. Individual brownish tips or branches can be seen.

2. Vertical bark cracks on trunks can be observed when shaking thuja branches, extending from the tree's tip downward on third-year growth and older trunks.



Which varieties were affected?

Practically all vertical varieties, including "Globosas," were affected. Thujas "Holmstrup" and "Piramidālis" suffered the most. Lesser frost crack consequences (branch browning) were observed in thujas "Brabant," "Smaragd," "Yellow Ribbon," "Golden Smaragd," "Golden Brabant," and "Sunkissed." However, impressive bark cracks were present on most trees. Some trees even had bark cracks over a meter long.

What to do?

This is not a fatal disease for trees. Trees that will die completely are already brown, and nothing can be done for them. There is also no point in sealing the frost cracks on living trees with grafting wax or wrapping them with tape. Theoretically, sealing and wrapping can only be done on the first day the cracks occur, and even then, the effectiveness is questionable. Over time, dust, fungi, and bacteria will have entered the cracks. These sites are at risk of becoming entry points for various pests.

At the "Bīlasti" nursery, we observe that the cracked areas are visibly healing. The plants will cope with these problems on their own.

For living trees, the damaged brown branches or tips must be cut off. Holes formed in the canopy will fill in over time. For larger trees, this may take several years. Optimal moisture and fertilization can promote faster hole filling. It is not recommended to use Lithuanian and Russian nitrogen nitrates for thuja trees, as they may cause significant needle browning. It is recommended to use special Dutch or German conifer fertilizers.

Fertilization and pruning To save trees from bending branches during snowy winters, it is advisable to trim the very tips in May when the first growth appears. This results in stronger branches that bend less.

Fertilization and trimming

To save trees from bending branches in snowy winters, it is advisable to trim the tips of the branches in May, when the first growth appears. This way, the fir trees will form stronger branches that won't bend as much under the weight of the snow. It also promotes the formation of a dense plant shape, and the trees won't have a bare lower part. We also prune after the second growth – in August – at the tree nursery.

We stop additional fertilization of fir trees at the nursery at the end of July. If fertilization continues longer, the plants will continue to grow intensively under favorable weather conditions, causing problems with hardening for the winter period. In such cases, in spring, you'll need to take scissors and cut off a large number of frozen tips.

At home, when there isn't a large plantation, it's more useful to use more expensive and effective mineral fertilizers – Osmocote or Horti Cote CRF plus. Keep in mind that these mineral fertilizer granules release nutrients through the coating only when there is moisture and warm weather.

To prevent the formation of bare main trunks that crack in the sun in spring, timely pruning of the tips is necessary, which will also ensure that the bottom grows evenly.

Mulching

If you plan to mulch around the plants, it is useful to first apply a soil cover material used in tree nurseries, placed under the pots. This will save you from unpleasant weeding, and additionally, water will drain through the material. Roll out the fabric next to the hedge and make a cut for each tree, then slide it into the hedge. Then put about 5-6 cm of mulch on top of the fabric. You'll need to buy 1-meter wide fabric. Stores often offer black cover material, but this is not suitable as it dissolves after a few years. We recommend using cover material with squares or stripes for precise planting and planning.

Which thuja variety for the hedge?

If you plan to mulch around the plants, it is useful to first apply a soil cover material used in tree nurseries, placed under the pots. This will save you from unpleasant weeding, and additionally, water will drain through the material. Roll out the fabric next to the hedge and make a cut for each tree, then slide it into the hedge. Then put about 5-6 cm of mulch on top of the fabric. You'll need to buy 1-meter wide fabric. Stores often offer black cover material, but this is not suitable as it dissolves after a few years. We recommend using cover material with squares or stripes for precise planting and planning.
The correct choice of fir tree variety for the specific planting site is also important. In places with wide fields or drafts, it is preferable to plant resistant western fir trees like "Boothi", "Holmstrup", "Columna", shearable "Brabant" and various other western shrub-like shearable fir trees. Our experience shows that eastern firs do not tolerate Latvian winters. Western fir "Smaragd" should be planted in well-prepared soil and in places without strong drafts. This is a beautiful variety but sensitive to spring sunburn, snow collapse, and slower growth. Growing this variety in a tree nursery is more labor-intensive and less rewarding.

If you plan to plant a conifer hedge near a busy highway, consider that in winter, salt emulsion from the road is lifted by car wheels and carried by the wind at least 100m from the road. If this emulsion settles on the needles, you can be sure that your trees will have burnt red needles in the spring. A classic example can be seen in the spring along the Liepaja highway beyond Kalnciems on the roadside pines.

Judging by the writing, working with hedges you may think that it is a hassle, but it isn't. You can handle everything yourself, but if you have enough resources, you can hire professional gardeners (the tree nursery can offer the services of its partner gardeners, ask us).

Covering

To protect plants from the bright spring sun, it is necessary to cover certain species, such as Canadian spruces 'Conica' and other similar spruce varieties. In previous years, we used spruce needles for covering plants, but since we have many 'Conicas' all out in the open field, a large number of spruce branches is required. This year, we will use so-called "sugar bags". They cost only 50 cents per piece, and additional string is needed for tying. The technique is quite simple - cut one end of the bag, put it over the spruce, cut holes on the sides, and tie it with the help of the string. As a result, a sort of hat is formed.

If the spruce has already been sunburned and brown parts have appeared, do not worry, the brown needles will fall off, new buds will appear, and the spruce will become green again.




If you want to plant fruit trees or roses in your garden, we recommend visiting the nearby Liepas nursery farm, where you can purchase not only apple and cherry trees, but also various peach, apricot, and grape varieties.